Your Wool Guide
It is true, wool is one of the best insulating fibers known to man. Versatile, temperature regulating, moisture
wicking, and gorgeous. wool is the heavyweight champ of the fabric world. It was only natural that man would want
to imitate the sheep's natural ability to stay dry and comfortable in pelting rain, freezing cold and even heat. For centuries, we've been making sheep's wool into all manner of clothing and textiles. But sheep aren't the only animals to get into the wool act; angora rabbits, alpaca and the exotic camel all produce luxury "wool" fibers used in knitting yarns and fabrics.
The challenge lies in distinguishing one type of wool from another. Is camel hair finer than cashmere? Is mohair softer than merino? It can be confusing, so here is a quide to help you understand more about wool.
What's So Great About Wool?
Wool is water resistant. The quality that distinguishes wool fibers from hair or fur is the presence of a hard water-repellent outer layer that surrounds each hollow fiber, overlapping like shingles on a roof. The fiber's core absorbs up to 30% of its weight in moisture vapor without becoming damp or clammy, while the hard outer layer protects against outside liquid moisture. Water is repelled, but humidity is absorbed, and that helps with thermal regulation. Wool is moisture wicking. Besides keeping outside moisture away from the skin, wool also wicks away perspiration. When you sweat, that sweat cools your skin-which is not what you want when it's cold outside. Wool fibers absorb perspiration and wick it away from your body, thus keeping you warm and dry.
Wool is a wonderful insulator. The crimp of the wool produces insulating air spaces that retain body heat. These warm air
pockets next to the skin are kept dry while the hollow wool fibers absorb moisture vapors and the hard outer surface moves liquid moisture away from the body.Wool regulates temperature and is breathable. Wool has a very wide comfort range, essential for adapting to changing weather conditions. This unique property makes wool the perfect fiber to be used in the production of outerwear, because it has the versatile ability to warm in colder conditions and cool in warmer conditions. Wool can be blended with many different natural and syntheticfibers to create a multitude of fabric options
Types of Wool
Sheep's Wool: Sheep's wool is the most popular type of wool, due to it being widely available and highly versatile. Very fine quality wool is used to make high-end fabrics for use in luxury garments likes suits, dresses, sweaters, and other apparel. Medium quality wool is used in the production of heavier sport coats, sweaters, and light blankets. Coarser wool is used for heavy blankets, topcoats and outerwear, and upholstery products.
Sheep's Wool:
Maintains shape when stretched.
Is colorfast when dyed.
Is wrinkle resistant.
Is static-free.
Is soft, durable, and easy to work with.
Is naturally white, brown, grey, charcoal, and black.
Is flame retardant.
Types of Sheep's Wool
Shetland
Raised in the Shetland Islands off the northern coast of Scotland, Shetland sheep produce very fine, lustrous wool from the down of their soft undercoat. The warm, lightweight Shetland wool is only available in limited quantities and natural colors and is mostly used in the production of high-end knitwear (most often cable knit sweaters), sportswear, and coats.
Merino
Merino wool has superior shine, legendary softness, great breathability, and a lot of warmth for minimal weight. Merino sheep are most often raised in the mountainous regions of Australia and New Zealand. The wool is lauded for its easily dye-able pure white color. It is fine, strong, naturally elastic, holds dye well, and its softness resembles the hand of cashmere. Merino wool does not have the itchy feel of some wools, is odor absorbent, and provides high levels of UV protection. Today, there are more than ten varieties of merino sheep worldwide. Some well known merino breeds are Australian, Peppin, Saxony, Rambouillet, Vermount, and South African.
Lambswool
This is the highest quality of sheep's wool on the market. Lambswool is taken from sheep at their first shearing (usually at around seven months old). It is supremely soft, smooth, resilient, elastic, and has superior spinning properties. Because of its soft silkiness and warmth, lambswool fibers are used in the production of garments worn close to the skin. Lambswool is the most hypoallergenic of all wools and is resistant to dust mites, making it an ideal choice for bedding and linens.
Loden Wool
Loden wool originated in the Tyrolean Alps in the 16th century and is still highly popular among sportsmen today. It is characterized by a slightly `greasy' feeling and is most often used in the making of heavy coats. Loden's luxurious nap is combed downward, creating a shingle effect that sheds water very effectively.
Melton Wool
Melton wool is thick with a smooth surface. The wool is napped and very closely sheared. Melton wool makes a very solid cloth due to the finishing processes that completely conceal the weave. It's durable, wears well, and is wind resistant. In its thicker weights, melton wool is used in the production of heavy outerwear. If the wool is a thinner weight, it is used mostly in the production of sweaters.
Wool Grades
The type or grade of wool is selected to suit the needs of the product being made, with appropriate fiber length, fineness, and
other properties to ensure the best end result.
Virgin Wool
Is taken from a lamb's first shearing. This is the softest and finest wool produced. And virgin wool can refer to wool that has never been used,
processed, or woven before. This type of virgin wool can come from an adult sheep.
Super Wools
Classified by the count or the fineness of the yarn used in a particular cloth. The finer the count (measured in microns), the more fibers are used per square inch of cloth. The higher the number, the finer and softer the cloth will be.
Boiled Wool
Created through a washing process applied to a knitted wool to make a dense, durable, and water resistant fabric. Boiled wool has the suppleness of a knit with the shape retention of a woven fabric. It has two-way stretch and is usually soil resistant.
Worsted Wool
Manufactured in Worstead, England since the eighteenth century. Wool fibers are spun into compact, smoothly twisted yarn before weaving or knitting. The wool then goes through a second combing process which removes unwanted short fibers. Because the remaining long-staple fibers
lay flat and parallel, worsted wool is a popular choice for suiting and dress trousers. It is also wrinkle and crease resistant.
Tropical Wool
Wool is a two-ply, plain weave, worsted wool that is sturdy but lightweight, airy, and breathable. Tropical wool (sometimes called
`summer weight wool) is used in the production of warm-weather suits and other clothing items.
Shearling
Lambskin or sheepskin that has been tanned with the wool still adhering to the skin. It is luxuriously soft, naturally
moisturizing, and used in high-quality outerwear and slippers.
Alpaca Wool
Softer and sturdier than cashmere and lighter than sheep's wool. Alpaca fleece is a luxurious commodity that produces warm, silky, durable, and feather-light garments. Alpaca wool boasts tremendous warmth and insulation with soft drape and texture. It's used in upscale suits, sportswear, sweaters, the linings of outerwear, draperies, bedspreads, upholstery, and baby clothing and blankets.
There are two breeds of alpaca,
the Huacaya and the Suri, and they produce more than 20 different colors of fleece between them. The common Huacaya breed produces
dense, thick, crimped, and fast-growing fleece. The rarer Suri alpaca have long lustrous fleece that takes more time to grow.
Alpaca Wool
Is fine, silky, and lightweight.
Has a nice luster.
Is strong and durable.
Does not generally pill.
Mohair
The Angora goat produces mohair wool, known for its silkiness and lustrous sheen. A very good insulator, mohair is also strong, durable, breathable, and lightweight. Although it accepts dyes well, natural mohair wool fabric is exceptionally beautiful because of its color variations. Mohair fabrics tend to be non-crushing, non-matting, and non-pilling. Mohair is used in high-quality suiting, sweaters, dresses, scarves, blankets, upholstery, and baby clothing and blankets.
Mohair Fabric is
Lustrous and silky.
Lightweight but exceptionally durable.
Drapes well.
Non-crushing, non-matting, non-pilling.
Absorbs dye well.
Does not stretch so it's easy to care for.
Angora
Angora wool is an extraordinarily soft fiber produced from the fur of the Angora rabbit. Angora fibers are hollow, which gives them loft and a characteristic `floating' feel. They're exceptionally soft and possess the highest heat retention (two-and-a-half times warmer than sheep's
wool), and best moisture-wicking properties of any natural fiber.
Pure angora
Fibers are rarely woven into fabric because the fibers are so fine and fragile. Rather, they are blended with other wools to increase warmth and enhance softness. Angora wool can be worn outside in very cold conditions and then immediately worn inside without overheating.
Because Angora involves a laborious harvesting process and a small number of producers, most angora wool products are expensive. Angora is used in luxury undergarments, underwear, thermal base layers, sweaters,and scarves.
Angora Wool Fabric
Extremely soft, lofty, lustrous, and lightweight.
Durable
Best heat retention of all natural wool.
Non-odor absorbing.
Cashmere
Cashmere is an extremely soft, luxury fabric made from the hair of the Kashmir goat. Native to India, Tibet, Turkistan, Iran, Iraq, and China, the Kashmir goat produces hair with a lofty feel and natural crimp. Technically, cashmere is the downy wool that grows beneath the goat's coarser outer hair and is gathered by combing the goat rather than clipping it. Only a few ounces of cashmere can be harvested per goat each year.
The natural crimp of cashmere fibers helps them interlock during processing and allows the fibers to be spun into a very fine and lightweight fabric. The crimp of the fiber correlates with the fineness of the spun yarn and the softness of the finished product. The fabric retains the loft of the fibers which makes it warm without weight. Because of its extreme warmth, light weight, and softness against skin, cashmere is used in sweaters, scarves, and undergarments. Coarser cashmere is used in outerwear.
Cashmere Wool Fabric
Is a luxury fabric.
Is lightweight and lofty.
Adjusts to humidity in the air for adaptability in all climates.
Is not known for its durability. Because cashmere has a high moisture content, its insulating properties change with the amount of
humidity in the air, making it comfortable in all climates (even warm ones).
Camel Hair
Like other luxury wools, camel hair is extremely soft, durable, lustrous, lightweight, and warm. Clothing manufacturers prefer the fabric in its natural state (a buttery, golden brown), but it is sometimes dyed navy, red, or dark brown. Since it is so highly prized and expensive to harvest, camel hair is usually blended with sheep's wool to make it more economical for the manufacturer to produce. Camel hair comes from the Bactrian (two hump) camel, which is bred in the extremely cold climates of China and Mongolia. The hair is gathered when the camel molts instead of by shearing or clipping. The fibers are used in the making of suits, coats, blazers, jackets, skirts, hosiery, caps, and robes. Because of its warmth, camel hair is also widely used for sweaters, gloves, scarves, mufflers, overcoats, quilts, etc.
Camel Hair Fabric
Luxurious fabric.
Extremely soft and fine.
Lustrous.
Durable and lightweight
wicking, and gorgeous. wool is the heavyweight champ of the fabric world. It was only natural that man would want
to imitate the sheep's natural ability to stay dry and comfortable in pelting rain, freezing cold and even heat. For centuries, we've been making sheep's wool into all manner of clothing and textiles. But sheep aren't the only animals to get into the wool act; angora rabbits, alpaca and the exotic camel all produce luxury "wool" fibers used in knitting yarns and fabrics.
The challenge lies in distinguishing one type of wool from another. Is camel hair finer than cashmere? Is mohair softer than merino? It can be confusing, so here is a quide to help you understand more about wool.
What's So Great About Wool?
Wool is water resistant. The quality that distinguishes wool fibers from hair or fur is the presence of a hard water-repellent outer layer that surrounds each hollow fiber, overlapping like shingles on a roof. The fiber's core absorbs up to 30% of its weight in moisture vapor without becoming damp or clammy, while the hard outer layer protects against outside liquid moisture. Water is repelled, but humidity is absorbed, and that helps with thermal regulation. Wool is moisture wicking. Besides keeping outside moisture away from the skin, wool also wicks away perspiration. When you sweat, that sweat cools your skin-which is not what you want when it's cold outside. Wool fibers absorb perspiration and wick it away from your body, thus keeping you warm and dry.
Wool is a wonderful insulator. The crimp of the wool produces insulating air spaces that retain body heat. These warm air
pockets next to the skin are kept dry while the hollow wool fibers absorb moisture vapors and the hard outer surface moves liquid moisture away from the body.Wool regulates temperature and is breathable. Wool has a very wide comfort range, essential for adapting to changing weather conditions. This unique property makes wool the perfect fiber to be used in the production of outerwear, because it has the versatile ability to warm in colder conditions and cool in warmer conditions. Wool can be blended with many different natural and syntheticfibers to create a multitude of fabric options
Types of Wool
Sheep's Wool: Sheep's wool is the most popular type of wool, due to it being widely available and highly versatile. Very fine quality wool is used to make high-end fabrics for use in luxury garments likes suits, dresses, sweaters, and other apparel. Medium quality wool is used in the production of heavier sport coats, sweaters, and light blankets. Coarser wool is used for heavy blankets, topcoats and outerwear, and upholstery products.
Sheep's Wool:
Maintains shape when stretched.
Is colorfast when dyed.
Is wrinkle resistant.
Is static-free.
Is soft, durable, and easy to work with.
Is naturally white, brown, grey, charcoal, and black.
Is flame retardant.
Types of Sheep's Wool
Shetland
Raised in the Shetland Islands off the northern coast of Scotland, Shetland sheep produce very fine, lustrous wool from the down of their soft undercoat. The warm, lightweight Shetland wool is only available in limited quantities and natural colors and is mostly used in the production of high-end knitwear (most often cable knit sweaters), sportswear, and coats.
Merino
Merino wool has superior shine, legendary softness, great breathability, and a lot of warmth for minimal weight. Merino sheep are most often raised in the mountainous regions of Australia and New Zealand. The wool is lauded for its easily dye-able pure white color. It is fine, strong, naturally elastic, holds dye well, and its softness resembles the hand of cashmere. Merino wool does not have the itchy feel of some wools, is odor absorbent, and provides high levels of UV protection. Today, there are more than ten varieties of merino sheep worldwide. Some well known merino breeds are Australian, Peppin, Saxony, Rambouillet, Vermount, and South African.
Lambswool
This is the highest quality of sheep's wool on the market. Lambswool is taken from sheep at their first shearing (usually at around seven months old). It is supremely soft, smooth, resilient, elastic, and has superior spinning properties. Because of its soft silkiness and warmth, lambswool fibers are used in the production of garments worn close to the skin. Lambswool is the most hypoallergenic of all wools and is resistant to dust mites, making it an ideal choice for bedding and linens.
Loden Wool
Loden wool originated in the Tyrolean Alps in the 16th century and is still highly popular among sportsmen today. It is characterized by a slightly `greasy' feeling and is most often used in the making of heavy coats. Loden's luxurious nap is combed downward, creating a shingle effect that sheds water very effectively.
Melton Wool
Melton wool is thick with a smooth surface. The wool is napped and very closely sheared. Melton wool makes a very solid cloth due to the finishing processes that completely conceal the weave. It's durable, wears well, and is wind resistant. In its thicker weights, melton wool is used in the production of heavy outerwear. If the wool is a thinner weight, it is used mostly in the production of sweaters.
Wool Grades
The type or grade of wool is selected to suit the needs of the product being made, with appropriate fiber length, fineness, and
other properties to ensure the best end result.
Virgin Wool
Is taken from a lamb's first shearing. This is the softest and finest wool produced. And virgin wool can refer to wool that has never been used,
processed, or woven before. This type of virgin wool can come from an adult sheep.
Super Wools
Classified by the count or the fineness of the yarn used in a particular cloth. The finer the count (measured in microns), the more fibers are used per square inch of cloth. The higher the number, the finer and softer the cloth will be.
Boiled Wool
Created through a washing process applied to a knitted wool to make a dense, durable, and water resistant fabric. Boiled wool has the suppleness of a knit with the shape retention of a woven fabric. It has two-way stretch and is usually soil resistant.
Worsted Wool
Manufactured in Worstead, England since the eighteenth century. Wool fibers are spun into compact, smoothly twisted yarn before weaving or knitting. The wool then goes through a second combing process which removes unwanted short fibers. Because the remaining long-staple fibers
lay flat and parallel, worsted wool is a popular choice for suiting and dress trousers. It is also wrinkle and crease resistant.
Tropical Wool
Wool is a two-ply, plain weave, worsted wool that is sturdy but lightweight, airy, and breathable. Tropical wool (sometimes called
`summer weight wool) is used in the production of warm-weather suits and other clothing items.
Shearling
Lambskin or sheepskin that has been tanned with the wool still adhering to the skin. It is luxuriously soft, naturally
moisturizing, and used in high-quality outerwear and slippers.
Alpaca Wool
Softer and sturdier than cashmere and lighter than sheep's wool. Alpaca fleece is a luxurious commodity that produces warm, silky, durable, and feather-light garments. Alpaca wool boasts tremendous warmth and insulation with soft drape and texture. It's used in upscale suits, sportswear, sweaters, the linings of outerwear, draperies, bedspreads, upholstery, and baby clothing and blankets.
There are two breeds of alpaca,
the Huacaya and the Suri, and they produce more than 20 different colors of fleece between them. The common Huacaya breed produces
dense, thick, crimped, and fast-growing fleece. The rarer Suri alpaca have long lustrous fleece that takes more time to grow.
Alpaca Wool
Is fine, silky, and lightweight.
Has a nice luster.
Is strong and durable.
Does not generally pill.
Mohair
The Angora goat produces mohair wool, known for its silkiness and lustrous sheen. A very good insulator, mohair is also strong, durable, breathable, and lightweight. Although it accepts dyes well, natural mohair wool fabric is exceptionally beautiful because of its color variations. Mohair fabrics tend to be non-crushing, non-matting, and non-pilling. Mohair is used in high-quality suiting, sweaters, dresses, scarves, blankets, upholstery, and baby clothing and blankets.
Mohair Fabric is
Lustrous and silky.
Lightweight but exceptionally durable.
Drapes well.
Non-crushing, non-matting, non-pilling.
Absorbs dye well.
Does not stretch so it's easy to care for.
Angora
Angora wool is an extraordinarily soft fiber produced from the fur of the Angora rabbit. Angora fibers are hollow, which gives them loft and a characteristic `floating' feel. They're exceptionally soft and possess the highest heat retention (two-and-a-half times warmer than sheep's
wool), and best moisture-wicking properties of any natural fiber.
Pure angora
Fibers are rarely woven into fabric because the fibers are so fine and fragile. Rather, they are blended with other wools to increase warmth and enhance softness. Angora wool can be worn outside in very cold conditions and then immediately worn inside without overheating.
Because Angora involves a laborious harvesting process and a small number of producers, most angora wool products are expensive. Angora is used in luxury undergarments, underwear, thermal base layers, sweaters,and scarves.
Angora Wool Fabric
Extremely soft, lofty, lustrous, and lightweight.
Durable
Best heat retention of all natural wool.
Non-odor absorbing.
Cashmere
Cashmere is an extremely soft, luxury fabric made from the hair of the Kashmir goat. Native to India, Tibet, Turkistan, Iran, Iraq, and China, the Kashmir goat produces hair with a lofty feel and natural crimp. Technically, cashmere is the downy wool that grows beneath the goat's coarser outer hair and is gathered by combing the goat rather than clipping it. Only a few ounces of cashmere can be harvested per goat each year.
The natural crimp of cashmere fibers helps them interlock during processing and allows the fibers to be spun into a very fine and lightweight fabric. The crimp of the fiber correlates with the fineness of the spun yarn and the softness of the finished product. The fabric retains the loft of the fibers which makes it warm without weight. Because of its extreme warmth, light weight, and softness against skin, cashmere is used in sweaters, scarves, and undergarments. Coarser cashmere is used in outerwear.
Cashmere Wool Fabric
Is a luxury fabric.
Is lightweight and lofty.
Adjusts to humidity in the air for adaptability in all climates.
Is not known for its durability. Because cashmere has a high moisture content, its insulating properties change with the amount of
humidity in the air, making it comfortable in all climates (even warm ones).
Camel Hair
Like other luxury wools, camel hair is extremely soft, durable, lustrous, lightweight, and warm. Clothing manufacturers prefer the fabric in its natural state (a buttery, golden brown), but it is sometimes dyed navy, red, or dark brown. Since it is so highly prized and expensive to harvest, camel hair is usually blended with sheep's wool to make it more economical for the manufacturer to produce. Camel hair comes from the Bactrian (two hump) camel, which is bred in the extremely cold climates of China and Mongolia. The hair is gathered when the camel molts instead of by shearing or clipping. The fibers are used in the making of suits, coats, blazers, jackets, skirts, hosiery, caps, and robes. Because of its warmth, camel hair is also widely used for sweaters, gloves, scarves, mufflers, overcoats, quilts, etc.
Camel Hair Fabric
Luxurious fabric.
Extremely soft and fine.
Lustrous.
Durable and lightweight
